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BenJAMMIN

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Registered: 04/05/10
Posts: 393
Reply with quote  #1 
Hey Gang -

I am finally getting ready to set up my LP1, GH1 and SLP and wanted to get some opinions on hardware mounting; specifically for tail bones, side rails and nose bones.  Do you think there is any advantage to using wood screws instead of the rat nuts that come with the old Powell guards?  I just hate to drill a hole through both sides of the deck if I can avoid it, when I can use a single hole with a small wood screw on the bottom.  Question is will the wood screws give enough bite, or is there a chance they will strip out from the stress when grinding?

Thanks all, and have a great Holiday!

~Jammin
T

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Registered: 05/12/07
Posts: 3,945
Reply with quote  #2 
Rat Nuts will not compromise the structural integrity of your deck as much as wood screws would and are less likely to fail if the rails or bones were slammed hard and pried away from the deck. Wood screws will still work and are the mounting method included on some products such as the thin rib rails.

So... !....or don't...

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WeededWade

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Registered: 08/05/05
Posts: 5,210
Reply with quote  #3 

yeah,  what he said....  some of most damaged boards I own are due to poor hardware decisions.....    and sadly enough those are usually boards that are from the late 80's early 90's.....   just saying 


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Grandpaskates

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Registered: 06/06/09
Posts: 2,401
Reply with quote  #4 
Quote:
Originally Posted by T
Rat Nuts will not compromise the structural integrity of your deck as much as wood screws would and are less likely to fail if the rails or bones were slammed hard and pried away from the deck. Wood screws will still work and are the mounting method included on some products such as the thin rib rails.

So... !....or don't...


mmm..Sarah.....

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ISLANDSK8R

Registered: 05/07/05
Posts: 13,327
Reply with quote  #5 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grandpaskates
Quote:
Originally Posted by T
Rat Nuts will not compromise the structural integrity of your deck as much as wood screws would and are less likely to fail if the rails or bones were slammed hard and pried away from the deck. Wood screws will still work and are the mounting method included on some products such as the thin rib rails.

So... !....or don't...


mmm..Sarah.....

 

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skateithigh

Registered: 09/05/09
Posts: 171
Reply with quote  #6 
ya
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tiltedflipcurves

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Registered: 08/25/09
Posts: 492
Reply with quote  #7 
Quote:
Originally Posted by skateithigh
ya

What he said.
R0GUECLAM

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Registered: 12/02/05
Posts: 2,299
Reply with quote  #8 
All I can say is that my setups that use sex nuts & bolts ("rat nuts" as you called 'em) are in solid condition.
My first GHII deck with 20" crooks rails w/ wood screws has significant cracks that almost run the length of the deck now.
I am for SEX (nuts)!


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buymedrinky2000

Registered: 06/19/03
Posts: 1,072
Reply with quote  #9 

 i wanna set up sara palin.....


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BenJAMMIN

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Registered: 04/05/10
Posts: 393
Reply with quote  #10 
You wanna give her your SEX Nuts

Sounds like the drill through bolts are the way to go.  Thanks all, I knew you guys would steer me in the right direction.
R0GUECLAM

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Registered: 12/02/05
Posts: 2,299
Reply with quote  #11 
Oh, also, I've heard that if you predrill the bottom of the deck with a drill bit SMALLER than the wood screws being used it yields better results.
If part of the strain on the wood results from a screw occupying space that was once wood, that would make sense.
(I'm still for sex bolts, but if you choose to try wood screws as well that's a little tip for ya.)


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BenJAMMIN

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Registered: 04/05/10
Posts: 393
Reply with quote  #12 

Agreed - drilling a pilot hole to remove stock would definitely reduce the stress on the wood.  However, I think I am going to use the drill through method for guaranteed strength and resilience... especially since they came with the guard.  If I ever pick up a set of Thin Ribs, maybe I will try the pilot hole and wood screw method.

jacbli76

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Registered: 08/05/08
Posts: 586
Reply with quote  #13 
I really cant see how "grinding" will stress any rail/tail or nose hardware

(you mentioned it might in your OG post)

maybe you meant "sliding"...since grinding happens w/ your trucks and not your nose guard, tail guard or rails...


and companies that warrantied decks in the 80s thru early 90s came w/ a card that stated they wont honor the warranty if wood screws are used.

makes sense that ratnuts/sex bolts help to maintain structural integrity since the hole you make is then completely filled again by the ratnut and screw, where as using just a wood screw causes pressure & stress cracking.


all that being said...i still prefer wood screws on my rails(when i use them)

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BenJAMMIN

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Registered: 04/05/10
Posts: 393
Reply with quote  #14 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jacbli76
I really cant see how "grinding" will stress any rail/tail or nose hardware

(you mentioned it might in your OG post)

maybe you meant "sliding"...since grinding happens w/ your trucks and not your nose guard, tail guard or rails...


and companies that warrantied decks in the 80s thru early 90s came w/ a card that stated they wont honor the warranty if wood screws are used.

makes sense that ratnuts/sex bolts help to maintain structural integrity since the hole you make is then completely filled again by the ratnut and screw, where as using just a wood screw causes pressure & stress cracking.


all that being said...i still prefer wood screws on my rails(when i use them)


Ya, your right, grinding is for trucks and sliding is for guards; just a "little slip of the tongue", but you know the old joke about that phrase

Anyway, I decided to go with both methods.  I used the "T" nuts that came with the Big Ugly for my LP1.  On the GH1 I decided to go with small wood screws due to the fact that the upturned lip limited the clearance to the edge of the deck.  I drilled small pilot holes to eliminate the stress on the wood, and put a little wax on the screw threads.  If they pull out, I can always drill a bigger hole and use the "T" nuts.  Both ways turned out fairly well.

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